Monday, August 3 2009
SEPPELTSFIELD In August 2007 this historic property and its treasure trove of great
fortified wines dating back to 1878 was purchased by the Kilikanoon group. A
series of complicated lease-back arrangements and supply agreements were
entered into between Kilikanoon and vendor Foster’s, further complicated by
Foster’s keeping the Seppelt brand for table and sparkling wines (mostly
produced at Great Western, Vic; see separate entry), but the Seppelt brand for
fortified wines vesting in purchaser Kilikanoon. The winery was fully
recomissioned for the 2008 vintage, including the gravity flow system designed
by Benno Seppelt in 1878. 100 Year Old Para Liqueur 1908 Rare Rutherglen Muscat NV Full mahogany, olive rim; an intensely fragrant and equally complex
bouquet; the flavours are more intense and piercing than those of the Muscat,
rancio now a cornerstone, but the wine is not heavier or more luscious, simply
marking the difference between tokay and muscat; 375 ml. Cork. Grand Rutherglen Tokay NV Rare Tawny DP90 NV Flora Fino DP117 NV Grand Rutherglen Muscat NV Selma Melitta Rare Luscious NV Para 1987 Glenpara GSM Barossa Clare Valley Grenache Shiraz
Mataro 2006 Clara Blanca Amontillado DP116 NV Vera Viola Rare Rich Oloroso DP38 NV An elegant, spicy true vintage port style, much closer to Portuguese than older
examples; the blend of shiraz and a little touriga has some impact, but it is
really the lower level of sweetness which enlivens the palate, allowing the
licorice and black fruits to express themselves. Its balance and length means
it can be enjoyed now or on its 15th birthday; 375 ml. In a squat, heavy base, clear glass bottle; a very substantial step up the
quality tree, the dried fruit/Christmas cake flavours perfectly balanced by
gentle rancio. This is a wine which leads you on and on. Average age 10 years;
500 ml. Screwcap. Cellar No. 6 Rutherglen Tokay NV Glenpara Pump House Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 Cellar No. 8 Rutherglen Muscat NV Glenpara Elm Walk Clare Valley Riesling 2008 Glenpara Head Office Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 Cellar No. 7 Tawny NV Ruby Lightly Fortified Grenache Rose NV
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The colour is slightly less dense than that of the 1918, yet paints the
glass so thoroughly it resists attempts to rinse it. It combine all the
expected intensity with an unexpected degree of elegance. (Tasted on its own,
elegance would likely be the last thing in your mind, but such is the
comparative element of all mega-tastings of great wines.) An extra element of
spice and cedar appears moments before the flavours surge across the palate,
then emphatic rancio on a finish which knows no end.
Rating 100 Drink 2010 Date Tasted Nov
08
Deep mahogany-brown grading to olive on the rim; explosively rich on the
palate; raisins, singed toffee, plum pudding, almond and multi-spices race
along the vibrant, wonderfully complex palate; rancio and associated acidity
keeps the wine lithe and lively; 375 ml. Cork.
17% alc. Rating 97 Drink 2010 $59 Date
Tasted Mar 09
17% alc. Rating 97 Drink 2010 $59 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Bright mahogany, with a rim of olive; in another tokay category
altogether, its piercing complexity coupled with elegance, a vivid line of
rancio running through the butterscotch, tea leaf and honey flavours; has great
length and balance. Serve chilled; 500 ml. Screwcap.
16.5% alc. Rating 96 Drink 2010 $32 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Full-on tawny colour; the bouquet immediately proclaims the age and the
class of the wine; the palate is electric in its intensity and vibrancy, the
rancio penetrating and lingering; the aftertaste goes on and on, and it is here
that the glorious breed and quality of the wine is most apparent. Cork.
20.5% alc. Rating 96 Drink 2010 $69 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Pale straw-green; a great bouquet, highly aromatic, tangy and fresh; the
palate follows precisely in the footsteps of the bouquet, with a mix of
nutty/green apple characters on the mid-palate, then a gloriously fresh, dry
and breezy finish. This has more character than Manzanilla; 500 ml. Screwcap.
16.1% alc. Rating 95 Drink 2010 $22 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Brown-gold; another step up in richness and lusciousness, an unctuous,
essency palate with spicy plum pudding and caramel overtaking outright raisin
flavours; the finish is sleek and lingering; 10-15 years barrel age. Serve chilled;
500 ml. Screwcap.
17% alc. Rating 95 Drink 2010 $32 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Bright mahogany brown, a blush of olive on the rim; into another realm
of richness and sweetness, yet always with the counter punch of rancio; flavours
of slightly burnt toffee and raisined sultanas; the finish has great balance;
500 ml. Screwcap.
18.5% alc. Rating 95 Drink 2010 $40 Date
Tasted Mar 09
In a unique heavy base, clear glass bottle with a fascinating variant of
screwcap. True tawny colour, the aromas are of hazelnut, mocha, dried fruits
and spice, the flavours an intense array infinitely complexed by rancio cut. By
far the best commercial liqueur-style tawny on the market. Screwcap.
19.5% alc. Rating 95 Drink 2010 $75 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Has good balance, weight (medium-bodied) and structure, but, above all,
a synergistic union between the regional and varietal components; has excellent
black and red fruit flavours, and good tannins. Screwcap.
15% alc. Rating 94 Drink 2021 $25 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Yellow bronze-old gold; nutty, dried fruit peel aromas, then a palate
which plays hide and seek; one moment with sweet honeyed nuances, the next dry
and nutty, with the crosscut of rancio which drives the finish; 500 ml.
Screwcap.
21.7% alc. Rating 94 Drink 2010 $26 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Light golden brown, with just a hint of olive; here the honeyed flavours
are more persistent, accompanied by dried fruit and nut flavours. Has
tremendous length; it is not until the aftertaste that the rancio dries out the
mouth, demanding another sip to start the process again. Average age of 18
years, but as fresh as a daisy; 500 ml. Screwcap.
21.1% alc. Rating 94 Drink 2010 $32 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Rating 93 Drink 2016 $18 Date
Tasted Mar 09
19.1% alc. Rating 93 Drink 2010 $32 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Pale golden brown; tea leaf, honey, shortbread biscuit and malt aromas; a
succulent, supple and rich palate, varietal fruit to the fore, rancio yet to
develop much impact. Previously released under the DP37 label. Screwcap.
16.5% alc. Rating 91 Drink 2010 $20 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Fractionally fresher colour; medium- to full-bodied, and has more rich fruit
than Head Office, ranging through blackberry, licorice and bramble, with some
earthy notes and a dry, savoury finish. Screwcap.
15% alc. Rating 91 Drink 2016 $25 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Tawny god-amber; the bouquet is redolent of raisins and a hint of rose petal; a
quite vigorous palate, with luscious raisin fruit balanced by a neat spear of
acidity. Screwcap.
16.5% alc. Rating 91 Drink 2010 $20 Date
Tasted Mar 09![]()
Quite rich and ripe, with citrus and some tropical fruits; relatively forward
style for next few years. Screwcap.
12.5% alc. Rating 89 Drink 2012 $19 Date
Tasted Mar 09
Some development in colour; a quite earthy/savoury wine, somewhat at odds with
its alcohol, for there is certainly no surfeit of ripe fruit; may appeal for
that very reason. Screwcap.
15% alc. Rating 89 Drink 2014 $40 Date
Tasted Mar 09
No red tints anywhere to be seen; the wine is distinctly rich and quite sweet,
with brandysnap and cake nuances; rancio is in the background. Serve chilled is
the wise instruction. Screwcap.
18% alc. Rating 89 Drink 2010 $20 Date
Tasted Mar 09
The instruction on the back label not to binge drink is appropriate; this could
get anyone into trouble, regardless of age and experience, so cleverly has it
been put together, the spirit doing little more than holding the red, spicy
raspberry and cherry fruit together. Screwcap.
16% alc. Rating 87 Drink 2010 $20 Date
Tasted Mar 09